Three Resorts in Three Days: A Short Ski Break in the Zillertal Valley

Back in late March, we escaped to Austria’s Zillertal Valley for a four‑night break — three full ski days, three different resorts, and one of the easiest, best‑value ski getaways we’ve ever done.

The Zillertal Valley is one of Austria’s true winter gems. It combines world‑class skiing with lively après‑ski, great food, and incredibly simple access. With direct flights into Innsbruck and one of the shortest (and cheapest) transfers in the Alps, it’s ideal for anyone who wants maximum slope time with minimum faff.

Here’s how our three‑resorts‑in‑three‑days adventure unfolded: Kaltenbach, Zell am Ziller, and Mayrhofen.

Getting There

We flew EasyJet from Gatwick to Innsbruck — a smooth two‑hour hop — and booked a private transfer straight to Kaltenbach. Even with just the two of us, the price was excellent compared to transfers in France or Italy. You can take the train if you’re really watching the budget, but the transfer is quick, comfortable, and gets you straight into holiday mode. Less than an hour after landing, we were checking into our hotel.

Why We Chose Kaltenbach

Kaltenbach might not be the first name that springs to mind when you think of Austrian skiing, but it turned out to be the perfect base for our trip. It ticked every box:

• Great value: Our 4‑star hotel was around half the price of similar options in Zell am Ziller or Mayrhofen.
• Peaceful vibe: Ideal for a trip with my 12‑year‑old daughter — close to everything but without the full‑on party scene. Although there are some bars around the main lift area, including the famous Postalm, the main apres party venue.
• Easy access: Right on the valley’s train line, making it simple to reach all the major ski areas.
• Great skiing – 90kms of varied pistes and some of the best off-piste in the region.
• Walkable: A ten‑minute stroll to the gondola each morning.
• Shortest transfer: Of the three resorts, Kaltenbach is closest to Innsbruck.

For a multi‑resort ski break, it couldn’t have been better. If you prefer somewhere with a bit more going on and a traditional feel, then maybe stay in Zell Am Ziller. If you like a buzzing place with lively apres and late night parties, then Mayrhofen is a must.

Where We Stayed: Explorer Hotel

We stayed at the modern 4‑star Explorer Hotel, right in the centre of Kaltenbach and next to the train stop. The lifts were an easy 5–10 minute walk away.

A few highlights:

• Breakfast: A fun DIY setup where you can cook your own eggs or pancakes — surprisingly great.
• Facilities: A lovely spa area and gym with mountain views, stylish bar, ski lockers, and a ski hire shop beneath the hotel (with guest discounts).
• Evenings: No full restaurant, but good bar snacks available and several excellent restaurants just steps away. Our favourite was Feuer & Flamme, where we had an incredible ‘huge’ steak. You may need to book on Friday or Saturday nights.
• Rooms: Clean, modern, good showers, strong Wi‑Fi (even if there were no English TV channels).
• Price: Outstanding value compared to other resorts along the valley.

It’s simple, stylish, and perfectly located for a ski‑focused trip.

Skiing Day 1: Kaltenbach

We grabbed our skis and board from the hotel’s locker room and wandered through the quiet village — with a quick supermarket stop — to the main gondola. The first thing we noticed: no queues. It was a Friday, and Kaltenbach is known as a locals’ weekend mountain, so midweek visitors can expect wonderfully empty slopes.

Kaltenbach is the gateway to the Hochzillertal–Hochfügen ski domain, with over 90 km of wide, open pistes. It’s perfect for warming up the legs after time away from the mountains. There’s a great mix of terrain for all levels, plus excellent off‑piste options, whether you are playing around off the sides of the piste, or going for hardcore backcountry lines.

The lifts are modern and fast, and every mountain hut we stopped at was great value — a refreshing change from France. Plus the snow conditions were excellent, even though we were so late in the season. A brilliant first day and the ideal warm‑up resort.

Skiing Day 2: Zell am Ziller

We checked the train times the night before, cooked ourselves eggs and pancakes, and headed out early. Trains run every 30 minutes along the valley, connecting all the ski resorts — and train travel is included in your lift pass. You simply show your pass to the friendly conductor.

The ride to Zell am Ziller takes around ten minutes. Trains are clean, comfortable and always seats available, where you can enjoy the passing mountain scenery. The ski lifts in Zell aren’t in the town itself, so you hop on a ski bus from the station. We waited about ten minutes, then it was a short ride to the gondola.

Zell am Ziller feels similar to Kaltenbach but on a bigger scale. The ski area offers 150 km of pistes, more huts, more restaurants, and more people — but still very manageable. Lift queues were short and fast‑moving, and the terrain variety is excellent. You could ski over to Gerlos and even Konigsleiten in a day as they are linked – then make it 5 resorts in 3 days!

There’s seemed to be less off‑piste than Kaltenbach, but more slopes to explore. Although most of the day there was spent in a white-out so sticking to the pistes was fine by us. And if you enjoy après, there are lively bars at the bottom of the main gondola serving classic Austrian sing‑and‑dance sessions.

Skiing Day 3: Mayrhofen

The next morning we stayed on the train past Zell and rode all the way to the end of the line: Mayrhofen. Unlike sleepy Kaltenbach, Mayrhofen is a bustling, energetic village full of bars, restaurants, shops, and a famous après‑ski scene.

The train drops you at the bottom of the village, so you can either take the bus or walk 15–20 minutes to the Penkenbahn gondola — the main lift into the ski area.

Mayrhofen offers 140 km of runs, including the legendary Harakiri, Austria’s steepest black run. Definitely one for sharp edges and steady nerves.

The skiing is varied and fun, but unlike the previous two days, the slopes were noticeably busier. Lift queues were longer, the pistes more crowded, and the whole place felt louder and livelier. Still enjoyable, but we definitely preferred the wide, empty slopes of Kaltenbach and Zell.

We did make the most of the après, though — grabbing drinks and food before catching the train back. With the last train around 8pm, we had plenty of time to soak up the atmosphere.

Heading Home

On our final day, after one last breakfast, our driver met us at the hotel and whisked us back to Innsbruck for our flight home. Everything ran smoothly — trains, transfers, lifts, timings — making the whole trip feel effortless.

Summary: A Perfect Short Ski Break

Three resorts, three days, great snow, easy travel, and excellent value. All three are high, snow-sure resorts. We went in late March and had lots of fresh powder and great conditions. We ate well, slept well, skied a lot, and didn’t spend a fortune. It’s a fantastic option if you want something a little different from the usual French mega‑resorts. With the train, it makes skiing a different resort each day so easy. No long drives or buses or busy car parks.

Here’s how the three compare:

• Kaltenbach — Quiet, great value, brilliant off‑piste, perfect for families or anyone who prefers calm over chaos.
• Zell am Ziller — Bigger ski area, traditional vibe, great hotels, relaxed après. Links over to Gerlos and Konigsleiten if you have time.
• Mayrhofen — Busy, lively, full of energy, famous for its après‑ski and nightlife.

If you’re looking for a short ski break with variety, convenience, and great snow, the Zillertal Valley is hard to beat.

Need help organising your Zillertal Valley adventure – just ask Paul